Setting for articles of jewelry.



No. 743,367. y PATENTED Nov. a, 1903;

c. T. WITTSTEIN.

SETTING FOR AR'II IGLES OF JEWELRY. APFLIOATION FILED NOV. e, 1902.'

N0 MODEL.

dyw' W uma. WASHINGTON a hit. 743,367.

UNITED STATESPATENTL OFFICE.

Iatented Iiovembei 3, i903.

CHARLES TLWITTST EIN, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

SETTING FOR ARTICLES OF JEWELRY.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 743,367, dated November 3, 1903.

Application filed November 6 1902. Serial No. 130,245. (N 0 model.)

which enables the full brilliancy of the gem to be displayed andv is at the same time secure, durable, cheaply manufactured, and of handsome appearance.

The accompanying drawings represent the setting adapted to a finger-ring and to a shirtstud.

Figure 1 represents the improved fingerring; Fig. 2, the setting of the ring; Figs. 3

and 4, side elevation and plan views, respectively, of the shank or body of the ring; Fig. 5, a sectional view of the setting of Fig. 2; Fig. 6, a view of the blank from which the setting of Fig. 2 is shaped; Fig. 7, a view of a setting adapted to use in a shirt-stud; Fig. 8, a view of the improved shirt-stud; Fig. 9, a setting-base and spiral adapted to receive the setting of Fig. 7; Fig. 10, a view of the blank from which the setting of Fig. 7 is shaped, and Fig. 11 a view of a blank similar to that shown in Fig. 6.

A represents a finger-ring comprising a shank a and a setting a. The setting is preferably formed from sheet metal by stamping therefrom a blank of substantially the form shown in Fig. 6. This blank has a central perforation a a series of either oval or round perforations a and an irregular or lobed circumferential edge, conforming roughly to the contour of the upper portions of the series of perforations. As shownin Fig. 6 the perforations a are of oval form and as shown in Fig. 11 they are of circular form. In either case the blank is subjected to the action of suitable forming-dies, thereby producing the hollow frusto-conical shape shown in Figs. 2 and5. In this operation the perforation a is enlarged and the perforations a are elongated in the direction of the axis of the setting, thereby producing curved or loop-form retainers 0 supported by standards a The upper portions of the loops are somewhat Wider than the remaining portions, producing rounded retainer ends, which are grooved on their inner surfaces and which may be bent or spun over the girdle of the gem. When thus curved over, the loops of the retainers will present a substantially uniform surface to the eye when viewed in side elevation, and the setting when formed as described has a cone-frustum at its base adapted to fit between the ends of the ring-shank and be welded or hard-soldered thereto.

In the constructions of Figs. 7 to 10, inclusive, the blank may have the shape shown in Fig. 10, which differs from that shown in Fig. 6 in having the irregular central perforation b. After subjection to the forming operation the setting of Fig. 7 is produced, having loops b at its base in addition to the retainingloops at its top. B represents a shirt-stud spiral equipped at its upper end with a ring I), perpendicular to its axis. Surmounting this ring and suitably welded or soldered thereto is the setting of Fig. 7, which is designated B.

In both constructions the retainers arch over the perforations in the sides of the setting and are connected and braced, making a secure and durable setting, and at the same time in use portions of the girdle of the gem Will be exposed and light will be admitted to the pavilion as well as to the crown of the jewel. Moreover, in both constructions an appearance of substantiability in the setting is secured without sacrificing any of the brilliancy of the stone. In addition sufficient strength is secured in the retainers without projecting them any objectionable-distance upon the facets of the stone, as is common in the point-setting, and, besides, retainers of the new form have the advantage inherent in rim-form bezels, such as are shown in my Patent No. 694,595, granted March 4:, 1902, that there is no danger at all of their being caught upon any article of clothing or the like, whereby the gem might become loosened and lost.

It is noteworthy that whether the improved setting be employed in a ring or other article of jewelry the setting is always attached at the end opposite its loop-form retainers to a support. Thus in the case of the ring the set- ICO ting is attached at its small end to the circlet or shank of the ring and in the case of the shirt-stud to the spiral or shank of the shirtstud.

It will be understood from the illustrations that the design of the setting may be varied without departure from my invention. Hence no undue limitation should be understood from the foregoing detailed description.

What I regard as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. Asolitaire-gem setting,comprisingahollow frusto-conical-shaped member with standards connected at their bases and joined at their upper portions by coacting loop-form retainers arranged in a circle to grip a stone between them, in combination with a support to which the end of said setting opposite its retainers is attached, for the purpose set forth.

2. A solitaire-gem setting, comprising a sheet metal member stamped into hollow frusto-conical shape and having perforations in its sides arched over by coacting loop-form retainers arranged in a circle to grip a stone between them, in combination with a support to which the end of said setting opposite its retainers is attached, for the purpose set forth.

3. Asolitaire-gem setting, comprisinga hollow frusto-conical-shaped sheet-metal member with an opening at its base coincident with its axis and with perforations in its sides arched over by coacting loop-form retainers arranged in a circle to grip a stone between them, in combination with a support to which the base end of the setting is attached, for the purpose set forth.

4. A solitaire-gem setting comprising a hollow frusto-conical-shaped member with standards connected by coacting retaining-loops arranged in a circle to grip a stone between them, and a shank-attaching base formed integral with the lower portions of said standards, in combination with a shank attached to said base, for the purpose set forth.

5, A fingerring, comprising a circular shank, and a solitaire-gem setting of hollow frusto-conical shape having standards connected at their bases and joined at their upper portions by coacting loop-form retainers arranged in a circle to grip a stone between them, said setting being attached at its base to said shank.

CHARLES T. WITTSTEIN.

In presence of A. (J. KITTLESON, ALBERT D. BAOCI. 

